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Tohe PAN AMERICAN UNION 

JOHN BARRETT : : Director General 
FRANCISCO J. YANES : Assistant Director 



A NEW GATEWAY TO THE 
HEART OF SOUTH AMERICA 



Reprinted from the February, 1918, issue 
of the Bulletin of the Pan American Union 



C 










WASHINGTON 

GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE 

1918 






h WWW 



if GATEWAY TO THE 
HEAST OF SOUTH AMEi- 



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FAR AWAY in a semitropical jungle, where the quietude is 
broken by the ceaseless roar of one of the world's greatest 
cataracts, a small party of men have been toiling for several 
years. They have been endeavoring to open a gateway, so to 
speak, to virgin lands where nature supplies productive soil, but where 
man with his modern methods and transportation facilities is almost 
an unknown factor. The result of these years of labor is a short 
railroad, only about 37 miles in length, an insignificant work, aside 
from future commercial aspects and the fact that it was necessary 
to transport materials and supplies long distances, making construc- 
tion tedious and unduly expensive. So secluded have been these 
railroad builders and the enterprise so overshadowed by international 
events on land and sea that it is almost unknown outside the region 
of activity. But the work is now consummated, a gateway is open 
and the modern locomotive draws cars of freight around the falls of 
Guayra. 

Five years ago one of the leading corporations engaged in yerba 
mate production in this region, the Empresa Matte Larangeira, 
decided to establish rail communication between the upper and lower 
waters of the Alto Parana, a river at least 1,600 miles long, linking 
a vast unknown area with civilization. The Alto Parana rises in 
the Brazilian State of Goyaz, flows southeastward, receiving many 
smaller streams before it joins the La Plata system near Corrientes, 
Argentina. Unfortunately for the steamboat man, who abhors river 
obstructions, but fortunately for the lover of nature's marvels or 
he who would develop gigantic electrical power, the Alto Parana is 
obstructed by at least two great cataracts. It is around the most 
southern cataract, or the falls of Guayra, that the little railroad was 
recently completed. 

Before considering some of the features of development of this 
region and the modernizing influences of the railroad, let us glance 
at the Alto Parana itself. Anyone who has been a long-distance 
voyager on the lower reaches of this stream is likely to retain vivid 
impressions of his experiences, and among experiences which stand 

1 By William A. Reid, Pan American Union staff. 

2 

51988—18 , \t/~ 



JUL 34 tttt 




A SECTION OF THE ALTO PARANA, SHOWING THE NEW RAILROAD CONNECTING 
THE LOWER AND UPPER WATERS OF THIS RIVER. THIS GATEWAY OPENS 
A VAST INTERIOR REGION OF BRAZIL TO COMMERCIAL EXPLOITATION. 
THE INSERT SHOWS THE GENERAL LOCATION OF THE REGION AS REGARDS 
THE CONTINENT. 



PARAGUAY. 




A REPRODUCTION OF A NEW MAP OF GUAYRA FALLS, MADE BY WILSON SID- 
WELL, CIVIL ENGINEER. 



A NEW GATEWAY TO THE HEART OF SOUTH AMERICA. 5 

out boldly in the memory are the river's unusually winding course 
and treacherous currents, the primeval solitudes of its wooded shores, 
and the marvelous navigating ability of the native boatmen who 
man the little steamers that ply up and down its course. 

From the mouth of the Alto Parana at Corrientes to the head of 
stream navigation, a distance approximating 500 miles, there are 
two stages of river transportation, viz, from Corrientes to Posadas 
(vessels drawing 7 feet) and from Posadas to Puerto Mendes. Na- 
turally, the larger boats ply between the first-named ports, covering 
the distance in about a day and a half. The second stage of the 
journey requires from three to four days, the steamers being of lighter 
draft but constructed with special reference to the strong and rapid 
currents, which grow more difficult of navigation as the river is 
ascended. 

Let us suppose that we leave Corrientes on the steamer Uruguayo, 
a comfortable little vessel which, with a sister boat, provides twice-a- 
week service to Posadas. The start is made at 7 a. m., and shortly 
thereafter the traveler finds himself on a broad expanse of water 
more like lake than river. Paraguay lies on the north and Argentina 
on the south. Steaming eastward the little Argentine port of Paso 
de la Patria is soon reached, but our vessel only anchors briefly to 
send the mail and a passenger or two ashore. Conversing with 
fellow travelers the stranger learns that this is a historic spot, hence 
Argentina has bestowed the patriotic name. For nearly 100 miles 
upstream the country is low lying and the river from 2 to 5 
miles wide. On the occasion of which we write, however, continued 
heavy rains (October) had caused the river to overflow its banks, 
inundating thousands of acres of territory of the two countries. 

Passing numerous little ports where the steamer makes short 
calls, we reach Posadas in the afternoon of the second day. This 
growing Argentine city of 10,000 population is the capital of the 
Territory of Misiones. The most noticeable features as observed 
from the river are the vast piles of quebracho and other logs, indicat- 
ing lumbering activity, and the port improvements whereby the 
through trains from Buenos Aires to Asuncion are ferried across the 
river to Embarcacion in Paraguay. 

If close connection is made at Posadas the traveler ascending the 
Alto Parana may leave within a day or two, possibly sooner, and then 
begins by far the most interesting stage of the upriver trip. From 
a width of a mile or two the Parana gradually narrows, and on either 
side of the river the shores become wooded and steep, and the few 
clearings in the forest or ports of call must look down upon rather 
than outward to the steamer. By and by the shores grow more dense 
with waving lines of bamboo, heavier timber being in the background. 
The river's current has attained a velocity of five or more knots per 





TYPICAL SCENES ALONG THE ALTO PARANA RIVER. 



Upper: Port Mendes, the head of steamboat navigation, and the southern end of the railroad around 
the Guayra Falls. Two inclined rail tracks lead from the warehouses to the steamers, which trans- 
port southward vast quantities of yerba mate. On the extreme left of the picture one may distinguish 
other buildings. Lower: This picture was taken a few miles inland from the river; it typifies the 
almost virgin lands which are gradually being brought under yerba and other agricultural production. 
On either side of the Alto Parana, after passing through bamboo, hardwood forests, etc., one frequently 
reaches vast areas of naturally clear land. 




The Bulletin is indebted to Hon. Daniel F. Mooney, United States minister, Asuncion, for a number of the illustrations, 

THE VERY NARROW ALTO PARANA] RIVER IMMEDIATELY BELOW THE FALLS. 

The man in the picture is Sr. Mendes, one of the principal owners of the new railroad built around the 
rapids. - He is standing on the Brazilian side looking toward Paraguay, the opposite shore. 



8 A HEW GATEWAY TO THE HEART OF SOUTH AMERICA. 

hour, with countless swirls and treacherous cross currents, which 
test the skill of the boat's master and crew to the utmost limits. 
There are no habitations to be seen except at long intervals, and 
these are usually thatched-roof houses sheltering a few families 
which seem to be battling with nature to prevent complete oblitera- 
tion by the encroaching forest. At several of these clearings saw- 
mills have been introduced and there are modern buildings; at other 
ports the only business is that of growing and shipping yerba mate; 
there being good warehouses to shelter the product as it comes in 
and awaits shipment. Lumber and yerba, then, and the workers 
connected therewith, are at present the main industries that provide 
cargo and passengers for the little steamers. Many rafts also are to 
be seen here and there along the river, containing thousands of logs 
en route downstream. 

As already observed, the Alto Parana in this region is a swift, 
narrow, winding, and somewhat dangerous river. The steamers 
tie up at convenient coves when daylight wanes and start forth 
again at the break of day. At night the boatmen are employed for 
a time in carrying aboard the vessel firewood used for steaming, 
previously cut in the forest and piled near the river. The lights upon 
the boat and those carried by the workers seem to serve well their 
double duty of lighting the forest path and frightening away any 
prowling animals, numerous along the river during the driest months 
of the year. 

On the forenoon of the fourth day after leaving Posadas our little 
steamer, the Iberd, sighted Argentina's flag and military outpost at 
Puerto Aguirre near the mouth of the Iguazu. The latter is the 
largest tributary of the Parana, and it is interesting to note that its 
source is only about 30 miles from the Atlantic Ocean, yet it flows 
1,500 miles or more westward and southward before reaching that 
ocean. 

The writer proceeded no farther up the Alto Parana, leaving the 
latter at Puerto Aguirre to travel by mules to the great falls of the 
Iguazu. The Ibera continued her voyage about 80 additional miles 
on the Alto Parana to the head of steam navigation. At Puerto 
Mendes the railroad starts around the Guayra Falls. The name of 
Puerto Mojoli has been bestowed upon the northern end of this 
37-mile road. 

The Bulletin is indebted to the well-known civil engineer, Mr. Wil- 
son Sidwell, a native of Ohio, U. S. A., who has labored in field and 
forest for the last three years in constructing the Guayra Railroad, 
for probably the best detailed map in existence of these marvelous 
cataracts. Instead of there being 7 distinct falls, Sete Quedas, as 
shown on numerous old maps, Mr. Sidwell's blue prints and pictures 




VIEWS OF THE GUAYBA FALLS. 



Top: Falls No. 7, beginning at top of picture. At the bottom, on right, there is a glimpse of the main 
gorge. Center: A portion of the river above falls No. 2. At top of picture we catch a glimpse of falls 
No. 9. Bottom: A section of the southern part of main gorge. On the right above the bluff falls No. 
14 is entering the main stream. On the left falls No. 13 also joins the main gorge. 

51988—18 2 




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A NEW GATEWAY TO THE HEART OF SOUTH AMERICA. 11 

give us a far better idea of the Guayra and its wonders, showing at 
least 18 falls of more or less magnitude. 

The work already accomplished in this interior region is interest- 
ingly told by Chief Engineer Sidwell in a recent letter from which 
we quote: 

Take a map of Brazil and follow the parallel that lines 24° 10' south of the Equator 
until it crosses the Alto Parana River. This point is more readily found when one 
knows that to the south the Parana River is the boundary between the nations of 
Brazil and Paraguay, while to the north of here the river lies wholly in Brazil. It is 
at this point along the river that one finds one of the marvels of nature that is still 
.almost unknown. Books have been written on the resources and wonders of Brazil 
that make no mention of the Guayra. One looks in vain over the compiled lists of the 
world's great water falls for the name of the grand cataract of the Parana River. It is 
isolated by some 50 kilometers of rapids and cascades below the falls. In the past it 
has been the rare traveler who has had the facilities for an expedition to these falls. 
And even after arriving at the site of the falls he has found that there is not one grand 
falls but a whole family of them, and that many are half hidden from view and that 
others could be seen only imperfectly from a distance. 

The river above the falls has a width of about 4 kilometers. Immediately below the 
falls the width is scarcely 100 meters. It does not narrow down in bottlelike fashion. 
A deep gorge with almost perpendicular walls of rock penetrates the wide river for a 
distance of over 3,000 meters. This gorge is really an inclined trough, and over the 
first thousand meters of distance the incline is very pronounced. Falls No. 6 is at the 
head of this trough; but it is only a fraction of the river that comes tumbling directly 
over into the inclined trough. The main gorge or trough has many lateral feeder can- 
yons and most of the falls occur at the heads of these laterals. Most of the lateral 
gorges have winding courses, so that one standing in front of the mouth of one of these 
laterals may see the falls very imperfectly or not at all and because of the devious 
courses of the canyons many of the falls face in widely different directions. It will be 
noted on the plan that the lateral canyons are separated from one another by islands. 
Most of these islands have never been reached by any other animals than birds. In 
order to reach falls No. 14, which is usually known as the large falls, it will be neces- 
sary to build three bridges over lateral canyons. 

For convenience the falls have been given numbers. In addition to the 18 falls 
noted there are a few others whose volume is insignificant. 

No. 1. The volume of water is small. It is only mentioned because it is distinctly 
the first falls and is isolated from the others. 

No. 2. This falls has an extension of about 100 meters, but the volume of water is 
not great. In time of low water one can wade across the section of river above these 
falls to the next island. 

No. 3. This is more or less equivalent to No. 2 in volume of water, but the drop is 
more broken and the falls more narrow and therefore not so picturesque. 

No. 4. The drop of falls No. 4 is vertical and is spread out over an extension of about 
100 meters. There is always a considerable amount of mist hanging above. It is only 
the explorer that will visit these falls, and even he must have the assistance of very low 
water in order to safely cross the portion of the river that leads to the three preceding 
falls. 

No. 5. Up to the present time no one has seen these falls, except very imperfectly, 
from a distance, but it appears that the water comes thundering down in the form of 
cascade. From a rocky ledge alongside of falls No. 4 one can see the foamy waters of 
falls No. 5 pouring into the main inclined trough a hundred meters or more upstream. 





SOME OF GUAYRA'S BEAUTIFUL CASCADES. 

Upper: Looking up the inclined trough from falls No. 2 toward falls No. 6, hut the latter is not visible 
in the picture. Distance between the two falls is about 2,620 feet. Lower: View of falls No. 2. The 
two men standing with arms locked are: On the right, Chief Engineer Wilson Sidwell; on the left, 
Sr. Tomas A. Jara. Sitting directly in front: Left, Col. J. E. Rodriguez, of the Argentine Army; 
right, Dr. Varela. 




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14 A NEW GATEWAY TO THE HEART OF SOUTH AMERICA. 

No. 6. As previously noted, falls No. 6 is at the head of the main gorge or inclined 
trough. The vertical drop as seen very imperfectly from a distance of several hundred 
meters appears to be only a few meters. This is followed by a long stretch of cascades 
in the inclined trough. 

No. 7. Like falls No. 6 the volume of water is considerable and the vertical drop is 
only a few meters. The lateral canyon of No. 7 enters the main gorge almost directly 
in front of falls No. 4. 

No. 8. It was difficult to decide whether this falls deserves a separate number. 
The volume of water is not great and comes tumbling over directly into the main 
gorge. 

No. 9. This is one of the largest in volume of water. The water comes tumbling 
over a series of steps in one continuous foam to the main gorge. 

No. 10. This is doubtless a very picturesque falls if one could see it properly. It is 
half hidden' rom view in a narrow lateral gorge. 

Nos. 11 and 12. These falls are visible from the Paraguayan side of the river and 
the views usually seen representing the Guaira are really views of these two falls and 
No. 14. 

Nos. 13 and 14. These two falls occur in the same lateral canyon. No. 14 is gener- 
ally known as the large falls because the drop is nearly vertical and gives rise to a 
greater amount of mist than do any of the other falls. These falls are visible in the 
distance from Paraguay. It is the view of falls No. 14 that is printed on the $100 
Paraguayan bills. 

Nos. 15 and 16. These falls would doubtless be attractive if one could see them com- 
pletely. They can be seen imperfectly from Paraguay, but during the three years 
the writer has lived in these parts no visitor has seen them at all. 

No. 17. Two of the accompanying views give a good idea of No. 17. This fall 
may be visited in time of very low water by wading across from the small portion of 
river that leads to falls No. 18. 

No. 18. The volume of water is not great, except in time of flood. The view shows 
the falls truthfully as it appears in time of low water. 

* * •* * * * * 

It appears from the fragments of history that these falls were better known some 
hundreds of years ago than they are to-day. It is recorded that a colony of Indians 
lived their lives peacefully just above the falls until driven out by the conquering 
forces of Portugal and Spain while settling boundary disputes. The Indians crossed 
the river and went westward, and eventually settled down and formed the town now 
known in Paraguay as Villarrica. The inhabitants of this town are known to this day 
as the Guairenians because their ancestors migrated from the Guaira. 

What will be the result of the building of this new gateway ? In 
the first place, we note that the company which financed the enter- 
prise has been engaged for some time in growing and shipping yerba 
mate, as it is called in Paraguay, and herva mate, as the same product 
is known in Brazil. In Argentina, Brazil, and Paraguay there are 
many yerbales (plantations where yerba mate is grown). Not only 
is the plant cultivated from the seed, but it is found wild and in 
abundance in the basin of the Alto Parana and tributaries. For 
centuries yerba mate has been used by the aborigines; and it is 
conservatively estimated that 10,000,000 people in South America 
to-day drink yerba mate; but in recent years the product has become 
more popular in Europe and the United States, drawing larger 
quantities from South America. Increased demand causes the native 




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16 A NEW GATEWAY TO THE HEART OF SOUTH AMERICA. 

gatherer or plantation owner to renew his efforts, and the new 
Guayra Railroad taps a vastly enlarged field of yerba production. 

In Paraguay the largest single grower of yerba is an English com- 
pany which owns more than 8,000 square miles of land, and its 
annual production represents about 60 per cent of that of the whole 
Republic. At present and in the past this company has found a 
ready sale for its output in Paraguay, Argentina, and Uruguay. 
The yerba mate harvest in Paraguay begins about January, and, of 
course, requires a vast number of laborers before the leaves are 
gathered, cured, packed, and transported to the river steamers. 
Hitherto this product from above the falls was transported miles by 
primitive methods; to-day with the stimulus of the road, we are told 
by an operating company, that "a, large amount of jungle has been 
converted into tillable land." And that "the company's launches 
navigate for more than 450 miles up the Alto Parana into the lateral 
rivers of Matto Grosso and bring down barges of yerba." 

But yerba is not the only valuable product that is destined to find 
an enlarged outlet from interior Brazilian States. The ranchmen 
with their cattle, sheep, and swine, gradually extending their pos- 
sessions westward in the States of Sao Paulo and Parana, and espe- 
cially in the latter, are beginning to produce results as indicated b} T 
the little barges loaded with dried beef, hides, etc., arriving at Puerto 
Mojoli, the northern end of the new railroad. 

The opening of modern communication between the upper and 
lower waters of the Alto Parana also furnishes an interesting subject 
of study in comparison with commercial development on other great 
watercourses. For instance, in traveling along Canada's " mysteri- 
ous" Saguenay we find similar vast, wooded, uninhabited shores as 
those of the Alto Parana, only the northern river possesses the woods 
of colder climates, while the southern river has its contiguous forests 
of hardwoods. Within the last decade the number of sawmills that 
have awakened the echoes of the Saguenay region is really surprising, 
their output of lumber passing southward to the St. Lawrence and 
thence to world markets. What the wealth of Saguenay woods has 
been to eastern Canada the quebracho and other timber of the Alto 
Parana may eventually become for the great cities of the Plata River 
system. 

Again, it is interesting to note the splendid and apparently inex- 
haustible supply of bamboo standing for many miles along the Alto 
Parana, so thick and so easily available that boatmen may almost cut 
the growth without leaving the little steamer's deck. On the other 
side of the world along Japan's Kudzue River we have a striking 
contrast illustrating the commercial utilization of bamboo. Similar 
in appearance and size of the Alto Parana growth, the Japanese draw 
greater financial returns from these forests than is the case perhaps 




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THE LAST OR MOST SOUTHERN CATARACT, TO WHICH THE NUMBER 18 HAS 

BEEN GIVEN. 

The branch of the Alto Parana here shown has to make still another drop, not indicated in the picture, 
before it enters the main gorge. This view was made during very low water, when the volume is not 
large. 





GLIMPSES OF BUSINESS ACTIVITY ABOVE THE GUAYRA FALLS, THE NORTH- 
ERN TERMINUS OF THE RAILROAD. 

Upper: The main street of Port Mojoli. It is here that the company which constructed the railroad 
proposes to erect a small hotel to accommodate business men and tourists who now have fair facilities 
for reaching this interior region by river and rail. Center: Boat building at Port Mojoli is active and 
this picture gives an illustration of a vessel of considerable size. From this place the boats ply up the 
Alto Parana and its numerous tributaries for hundreds of miles. Lower: Two boats loaded with dried 
beef have just arrived at Port Mojoli. The beef may be seen strung on lines aboard the boats. In the 
hold large quantities of yerba mate are ready for transshipment. On the extreme left one may catch 
a glimpse of several cars which are operated on the new railroad. 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 

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015 899 705 8 

20 A NEW GATEWAY TO THE HEART OF SOU±n aiyl^jiiua. 

anywhere else in the world. They not only construct homes and 
make their furniture of bamboo wood, but in family and business 
life there is scarcely a phase where the useful bamboo article is not 
found. By importing skilled bamboo workers from the Kudzue 
region of Japan to one or more of the settlements on the Alto Parana 
where the product is abundant, a pioneer bamboo woodworking plant 
might be established; comparatively few tools are required — prac- 
tically no expensive machinery — and without doubt articles made of 
bamboo could find sale in a large percentage of the homes of South 
America. Perhaps Brazil, which is already importing the Japanese 
laborer in large numbers, will direct some of the skilled workers to 
her bamboo forests, and in this connection the new southern outlet 
affords cheap transportation to the greatest markets of the conti- 
nent. Japan derives enormous revenues from her bamboo forests, 
and ere long we may see the Alto Parana bamboo just as valuable an 
asset. 

The question of types of steamers best suited for freight as well as 
passenger trade is one of importance in connection with future devel- 
opment of the Alto Parana region; and it is interesting to note that 
the two leading companies operating to-day on that river hope to 
offer the traveler improved accommodations at an early date. The 
tourist, and especially those possessing ample means, have been 
accustomed to wander on many unbeaten paths. When peace re- 
turns to the world the globe-trotter will surely resume his pilgrimages, 
and Europe for a while may be the universal Mecca ; but people will 
wish to get away from the sights of sorrow and distress, they will 
have desires to view the new lands and marvelous sights of the South- 
ern Continent. Already the tourist trail is broken to the great and 
glorious falls of the Iguazu. And still another cataract is now avail- 
able for the pioneer tourist; instead of viewing the Iguazu only, the 
same steamer providing a wait of a day and a half at Puerto Aguirre, 
may give its tourist passengers the double delight of viewing both 
the Iguazu and the Guayra. The latter lies less than 100 miles up 
river from the Iguazu, and both falls are reached via the Alto Parana, 
as already observed. The little railway now makes the Guayra easily 
accessible, and in the words of Chief Engineer Sidwell, "an unassum- 
ing hotel will soon be constructed at Puerto Mojoli, close to the falls. 
It, therefore, seems probable that within six months tourists may 
come and go at will." 




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